Skip to main content

Rock and Ice Climbing

  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Adventure and Extreme Sports Injuries

Abstract

Modern sport climbing, or its various versions, has developed from mountaineering which was a sport that started in the European Alps. By the mid-1980s, the popularity of this new-old sport has spread globally and diversified to include new categories like ice climbing, bouldering, speed climbing, and aid climbing. The style in which a route is climbed and the difficulty involved now might be considered to be more important than reaching the summit itself. In style we refer to free climbing, which stands for a climb conducted using only the rock face formations, or aid climbing, when one can make his progress by using also various devices anchored into the wall, like a sling ladder. Simultaneously, in mountaineering, the routes to reach the summit became more and more difficult and started to fall into the definition of extreme climbing.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 84.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as EPUB and PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 189.00
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

References

  1. Schöffl V, Küpper T. Injuries at the 2005 world championships in rock climbing. Wilderness Environ Med. 2006;17:187–90.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  2. Hochholzer T, Schöffl V. One move too many. 2nd ed. Ebenhausen: Lochner Verlag; 2006.

    Google Scholar 

  3. Schöffl V, Morrison AB, Schwarz U, Schöffl I, Küpper T. Evaluation of injury and fatality risk in rock and ice climbing. Sports Med. 2010;40:657–79.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  4. Nelson NG, McKenzie LB. Rock climbing injuries treated in emergency departments in the U.S., 1990–2007. Am J Prev Med. 2009;37:195–200.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  5. Schöffl V, Morrison AB, Hefti U, Schwarz U, Küpper T. The UIAA medical commission injury classification for mountaineering and climbing sports. Wilderness Environ Med. 2011;22:46–51.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  6. Schussmann LC, Lutz LJ, Shaw RR, Bohn CR. The epidemiology of mountaineering and rock climbing accidents. Wilderness Environ Med. 1990;1:235–48.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  7. Schöffl VR, Schöffl I. Finger pain in rock climbers: reaching the right differential diagnosis and therapy. J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 2007;47:70–8.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  8. Neuhof A, Hennig FF, Schöffl I, Schöffl V. Injury risk evaluation in sport climbing. Int J Sports Med. 2011;32:794–800.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  9. Schöffl V, Küpper T. Rope tangling injuries – how should a climber fall? Wilderness Environ Med. 2008;19:146–9.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  10. Schöffl V, Schöffl I, Schwarz U, Hennig F, Küpper T. Injury-risk evaluation in water ice climbing. Med Sport. 2009;2:32–8.

    Google Scholar 

  11. Schöffl V, Morrison A, Schöffl I, Küpper T. Epidemiology of injury in mountaineering, rock and iceclimbing. In: Caine D, Heggie T, editors. Medicine and sport science – epidemiology of injury in adventure and extreme sports. Basel: Karger; 2012.

    Google Scholar 

  12. Basnyat B, Murdoch DR. High-altitude illness. Lancet. 2003;361:1967–74.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  13. Basnyat B, Lemaster J, Litch JA. Everest or bust: a cross sectional, epidemiological study of acute mountain sickness at 4243 meters in the Himalayas. Aviat Space Environ Med. 1999;70:867–73.

    PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  14. Schöffl V, Winkelmann HP. [Footdeformations in sportclimbers] Fußdeformitäten bei Sportkletterern. D Z Sportmed. 1999;50:73–6.

    Google Scholar 

  15. Hohlrieder M, Lutz M, Schubert H, Eschertzhuber S, Mair P. Pattern of injury after rock-climbing falls is not determined by harness type. Wilderness Environ Med. 2007;18:30–5.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  16. Hochholzer T, Schöffl VR. Epiphyseal fractures of the finger middle joints in young sport climbers. Wilderness Environ Med. 2005;16:139–42.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  17. Kubiak EN, Klugman JA, Bosco JA. Hand injuries in rock climbers. Bull NYU Hosp Jt Dis. 2006;64:172–7.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  18. Logan AJ, Makwana N, Mason G, Dias J. Acute hand and wrist injuries in experienced rock climbers. Br J Sports Med. 2004;38:545–8.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  19. Schöffl V, Hochholzer T, Winkelmann HP, Strecker W. Pulley injuries in rock climbers. Wilderness Environ Med. 2003;14:94–100.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  20. Schöffl V, Hochholzer T, Winkelmann HP, Strecker W. [Differential diagnosis of finger pain in sport climbers] Differentialdiagnose von Fingerschmerzen bei Sportkletterern. D Z Sportmed. 2003;54:38–43.

    Google Scholar 

  21. Hochholzer T, Heuk A, Hawe W, Keinath C, Bernett P. Verletzungen und Überlastungssyndrome bei Sportkletterern im Fingerbereich. Prakt Sport Trauma Sportmed. 1993;2:57–67.

    Google Scholar 

  22. Schöffl VR, Hochholzer T, Imhoff AB, Schoffl I. Radiographic adaptations to the stress of high-level rock climbing in junior athletes: a 5-year longitudinal study of the German junior national team and a group of recreational climbers. Am J Sports Med. 2007;35:86–92.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  23. Schöffl V, Hochholzer T, Imhoff A. Radiographic changes in the hands and fingers of young, high-level climbers. Am J Sports Med. 2004;32:1688–94.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  24. Schöffl V. Rock climbing. In: Engelhardt M, editor. Sports injuries, vol. 1. Munich/Jena: Elsevier; 2011.

    Google Scholar 

  25. Schöffl V, Schöffl I. Injuries to the finger flexor pulley system in rock climbers – current concepts. J Hand Surg Am. 2006;31:647–54.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  26. Schöffl V, Einwag F, Strecker W, Schöffl I. Strength measurement after conservatively treated pulley ruptures in climbers. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2006;38:637–43.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  27. Schöffl I, Einwag F, Strecker W, Hennig F, Schöffl V. Impact of taping after finger flexor tendon pulley ruptures in rock climbers. J Appl Biomech. 2007;23:52–62.

    PubMed  Google Scholar 

  28. Hochholzer T, Schöffl V. [Osteoarthrosis in fingerjoints of rockclimbers] Degenerative Veränderungen der Fingergelenke bei Sportkletterern. D Z Sportmed. 2009;60:145–9.

    Google Scholar 

  29. Schweizer A. Lumbrical tears in rock climbers. J Hand Surg Br. 2003;28:187–9.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  30. Logan AJ, Mason G, Dias J, Makwana N. Can rock climbing lead to Dupuytren’s disease? Br J Sports Med. 2005;39:639–44.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  31. Schöffl V, Klee S, Strecker W. Evaluation of physiological standard pressures of the forearm flexor muscles during sport specific ergometry in sport climbers. Br J Sports Med. 2004;38:422–5.

    Article  Google Scholar 

  32. Förster R, Penka G, Bosl T, Schöffl VR. Climber’s back – form and mobility of the thoracolumbar spine leading to postural adaptations in male high ability rock climbers. Int J Sports Med. 2009;30:53–9.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  33. Küpper T, Gieseler U, Angelini D, Hillebrandt J, Milledge J. Emergency field management of acute mountain sickness, high altitude pulmonary oedema and high altitude cerebral oedema. In: Commission UM, editor. Consensus statement of the UIAA medical commission. 1st ed. Bern: UIAA; 2009.

    Google Scholar 

  34. Küpper T. [Workload and professional requirements for alpine rescue]. Professoral Thesis at RWTH Aachen Technical University/Germany, 2006 (English publication in preparation). Professoral Thesis (English publication in preparation). Aachen: Aachen Technical University; 2006.

    Google Scholar 

  35. Firth PG, Zheng H, Windsor JS, Sutherland AI, Imray CH, Moore GW, Semple JL, Roach RC, Salisbury RA. Mortality on Mount Everest, 1921–2006: descriptive study. BMJ. 2008;337:a2654.

    Article  PubMed  Google Scholar 

  36. Pollard A, Clarke C. Deaths during mountaineering at extreme altitude. Lancet. 1988;1:1277.

    Article  PubMed  CAS  Google Scholar 

  37. Salisbury R. The Himalayan database: the expedition archives of Elizabeth Hawley. Golden: American Alpine Club; 2004.

    Google Scholar 

  38. Salisbury R, Hawley E. The Himalayan by the numbers. 2007. www.himalayandatabase.com. Accessed on 11 Sep 2012.

Download references

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Volker Schöffl Ph.D., M.D., MHBA .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2013 Springer-Verlag London

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Schöffl, V. (2013). Rock and Ice Climbing. In: Mei-Dan, O., Carmont, M. (eds) Adventure and Extreme Sports Injuries. Springer, London. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4471-4363-5_2

Download citation

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4471-4363-5_2

  • Published:

  • Publisher Name: Springer, London

  • Print ISBN: 978-1-4471-4362-8

  • Online ISBN: 978-1-4471-4363-5

  • eBook Packages: MedicineMedicine (R0)

Publish with us

Policies and ethics