Abstract
A characterization study of the samples of hair and animal keratin was performed to enhance the understanding of the thermal properties of the hair of the main ethnic groups. The mechanical, physicochemical and thermal properties of Caucasian, Oriental and African-ethnic hair have been widely described; however, this research adds knowledge about the thermal and analytical properties of these types of hair. To achieve such objective, thermogravimetry (TG), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and elemental analysis techniques were employed. To estimate the thermal stability of the hair samples, TG carried out a non-isothermal TG method kinetic study. The results obtained of TG/DTG showed similarity between the samples of hair and animal keratin, for all the events of thermal decomposition involved with mass loss. African-ethnic hair sample presented the lower thermal stability. This fact can be related to the data literature that showed that this type of ethnicity has the less tensile strength and breaks more easily than others types of the hair. Oriental hair sample showed to be, from the non-isothermal TG method kinetic study, more thermally stable than the other samples. DSC results showed that the hair samples presented melting/denaturation of the crystalline phase; however, animal keratin sample did not present such.
Similar content being viewed by others
References
Robbins C. Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. 3rd ed. New York: Springer; 1994.
Feughelman A. Mechanical properties and structure of alpha-keratin fibers: wool, human hair and related fibers. Sydney: University of South Wales Press; 1997.
Velasco MVR, Sá-Dias TCS, Freitas AZ, Vieira Junior ND, Kaneko TM, Baby AR. Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties. Braz J Pharm Sci. 2009;45(2):153–62.
Astbury WT, Street A. X-ray studies of the structure of hair, wool and related fibers. I. General. Philos Trans R Soc Lond Ser A. 1931;230:75–101.
Astbury WT, Woods HJ. X-ray diffraction studies of the structure of hair, wool and related fibers. II. The molecular structure and elastic properties of hair keratin. Philos Trans R Soc Lond Ser A. 1933;232:333–94.
Thibaut S, Barbarat P, Leroy F, Bernard BA. Human hair keratin network and curvature. Int J Dermatol. 2007;46(1):7–10.
Dias TCS, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, Velasco MVR. Relaxing/straightening of Afro-ethnic hair: historical overview. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6:2–5.
Franbourg A, Hallegot P, Toutain C, Leroy F. Current research on ethnic hair. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003;48:115–9.
Lima CRRC, Avila SG, Matos JR. Kinetic study thermal decomposition of bacuri (Platonia insgnis Mart.) and ucuúba (Virola sebifera Aubl.) butter using TG-isothermic method. Lat Am J Pharm. 2015;34(2):364–9.
Almeida MM, Lima CRRC, Quenca-Guillen JS, Filho EM, Mercuri LP, Santoro MIMR, Kedor-Hackmann ERM. Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis. Braz J Pharm Sci. 2010;46:129–34.
Almeida MM, Bou-Chacra NA, Lima CRRC, Matos JR, Filho EM, Mercuri LP, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, Velasco MVR. Characterization and evaluation of free and nanostructured ursolic acid incorporated in cosmetic formulation using thermal analysis. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2013;115:2401–6.
Kobelnilk M, Fontanari GG, Cassimiro DL, Ribeiro CA, Crespi MS. Thermal behavior of coffee oil (Robusta and Arabica species). J Therm Anal Calorim. 2014;115:2045–52.
Guthrie JT, Kazlauciunas A, Rongong L, Rush S. The characterization of treated and dyed hair. Dyes Pigments. 1995;29(1):23–44.
Jachowicz R, McMullen J. Thermaldegradation of hair. II. Effect of selected polymers and surfactants. J Cosmet Sci. 1998;49:245–56.
Wortmann FJ, Springob C, Sendelbach G. Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water. J Cosmet Sci. 2002;53:219–28.
Belletti KMS, Feferman IH, Mendes TRO, Piaceski AD, Monteiro VF, Carre’o NLV, Valentini A, Leite ER, Longo E. Evaluation of hair fiber hydration by differential scanning calorimetry, gas chromatography and sensory analysis. J Cosmet Sci. 2003;54:527–35.
Éhen ZS, Novák CS, Sztatisz J, Bene O. Thermal characterization of hair using TG-MS combined thermoanalytical technique. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2004;78:427–40.
Cao J, Leroy F. Depression of the melting temperature by moisture for α-form crystallites in human hair keratin. Biopolymers. 2005;77:38–43.
Rigoletto R, Karolak J, Koelmel D. Quantification of fiber fragmentation of hair through combing as a measure of thermal protection. J Cosmet Sci. 2009;60:278–9.
Gama RM, Balogh TS, França S, Dias TCD, Bedin V, Baby AR, Matos JR, Velasco MVR. Thermal analysis of hair treated with oxidative hair dye under influence of conditioners agents. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2011;106(2):399–405.
Hartung C, Kortemeier U, Westerholt U, Winter P, Dahl V, Trambitas A, Langer S, Schwab P, Jha B. T-shaped siloxane microemulsion for improved hair conditioning and protection. Cosmet Toilet. 2013;123(8):160–8.
Benaiges A, Fernández E, Martínez-Teipel B, Armengol R, Barba C, Coderch L. Hair efficacy of botanical extracts. J Appl Polym Sci. 2013;128(1):861–8.
Brebu M, Spiridon I. Thermal degradation of keratin waste. J Anal Appl Pyrol. 2011;91:288–95.
Daneluti ALM, Matos JR. Study of thermal behavior of phytic acid. Braz J Pharm Sci. 2013;49(2):275–83.
Marian E, Tita B, Jurca T, Fulias A, Vicas L, Tita D. Thermal behaviour of erythromycin-active substance and tablets. Part 1. Kinetic study of the active substance under non-isothermal conditions. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2013;111:1025–31.
Istrate D, Popescu C, Möller M. Non-isothermal kinetics of hard α-keratin thermal denaturation. Macromol Biosci. 2009;9(8):805–12.
Cides LCS, Araújo AAS, Santos-Filho M, Matos JR. Thermal behavior, compatibility study and decomposition kinetics of glimepiride under isothermal and non-isothermal conditions. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2006;84(2):441–5.
Yoshida MI. Cinética e mecanismo de reações de decomposição térmica no estado sólido: influência de variações estruturais no ligante, sobre o parâmetro cinético. Belo Horizonte: UFMG; 1993.
Bischof JC, He X. Thermal stability of proteins. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2005;1066:1.
Istrate D, Popescu C, Rafik ME, Möller M. The effect of pH on the thermal stability of fibrous hard alpha-keratins. Polym Degrad Stab. 2013;98:542–9.
Florence TM. Degradation of protein disulphide bonds in dilute alkali. Biochem J. 1980;189(3):507–20.
Nakano AK. Comparação de danos induzidos em cabelos de três etnias por diferentes tratamentos. Campinas: Unicamp; 2006.
Ozawa T. A new method of analyzing thermogravimetric data. Bull Chem Soc Jpn. 1965;38(11):1881–6.
Ozawa T. Thermal analysis: review and prospect. Thermochim Acta. 2000;355:35–42.
Monteiro VF, Maciel AP, Longo E. Thermal analysis of caucasian human hair. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2005;79:289–93.
Liu X, Gu S, Xu W. Thermal and structural characterization of superfine down powder. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2013;111:259–66.
Gray J. The world of hair: a scientific companion. New York: Macmillan; 1997.
Marti M, Ramírez R, Manich AM, Coderch L, Parra JL. Thermal analysis of merino wool fibers without internal lipids. J Appl Polym Sci. 2007;104:545–51.
Bermejo-Barrera AM, Rossi SS. Hair and urine analysis: relative distribution of drugs and their metabolites. Forensic Sci Int. 1995;70:203.
Arnold W, Sachs H. Hair analysis for medicaments—the best proof for a drug career. Fresenius J Anal Chem. 1994;348:484–9.
Passwater RAE, Cranton EM. Trace elements, hair analysis and nutrition. New Canaan: Keats Publishing Inc.; 1983.
Draelos ZD. Hair cosmetics. Dermatol Clin. 1991;9(1):19–27.
Popescu C, Höcker H. Hair—the most sophisticated biological composite material. Chem Soc Rev. 2007;36:1282–91.
Choi SY, Kim MG, Inoue H. Determination of sulfur in biologically important substances by pyrolysis-gas chromatography. J Anal Appl Pyrol. 1995;32:127–36.
Cao J, Joko K, Cook JR. DSC studies of the melting behavior of α-form crystallites in wool keratin. Text Res J. 1997;67:117–23.
Wortmann FJ, Deutz HJ. Thermal analysis of ortho- and para-cortical cells isolated from wool fibers. J Appl Polym Sci. 1998;68:1991–5.
Spei M, Holzem R. Thermoanalytical determination of the relative helix content of keratins. Colloid Polym Sci. 1989;257:549–51.
Wortmann FJ, Deutz H. Characterizing keratins using high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC). J Appl Polym Sci. 1993;48:137–50.
Wortmann FJ, Stapels M, Chandra L. Humidity-dependent bending recovery and relaxation of human hair. J Appl Polym Sci. 2009;113:3336–44.
Chandrashekara MN, Ranganathaiah C. Chemical and photochemical degradation of human hair: a free-volume microprobe study. J Photochem Photobiol B Biol. 2010;101:286–94.
Fernandes MM, Lima CF, Loureiro A, Gomes AC, Cavaco-Paulo A. Keratin-based peptide: biological evaluation and strengthening properties on relaxed hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34:338–46.
Wortmann FJ, Stapels M, Elliott R, Chandra L. The effect of water on the glass transition of human hair. Biopolymers. 2006;81:371–5.
Tonetti C, Varesano A, Vineis C, Mazzuchetti G. Differential scanning calorimetry for the identification of animal hair fibers. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2015;119:1445–51.
Khumalo NP, Doe PT, Dawber RP, Ferguson DJ. What is normal black African hair? A light and scanning electron-microscopic study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2000;43:814–20.
Draelos ZD. Hair care; an illustrated dermatologic handbook. London: Taylor and Francis; 2005. p. 217.
Acknowledgements
The authors would like to thank CAPES and CNPq for the financial support.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
Lima, C.R.R.d., de Almeida, M.M., Velasco, M.V.R. et al. Thermoanalytical characterization study of hair from different ethnicities. J Therm Anal Calorim 123, 2321–2328 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10973-015-5070-6
Received:
Accepted:
Published:
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10973-015-5070-6