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Assessment of the decadal morphodynamic evolution of a mixed energy inlet using ocean color remote sensing

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Abstract

A consistent time series of synoptic and high-frequency bathymetric observations is fundamental to improving our understanding and predictive capabilities regarding the morphological behavior of large coastal inlets. Based on satellite observations, an original approach is proposed to characterize the long-term morphological evolution of the Arcachon lagoon inlet and to describe sediment bypassing and breaching mechanisms. The almost 26-year-long remotely sensed data archive used in this study is built from 78 suitable SPOT images (1986–2012) collected in the framework of the KALIDEOS-Littoral program. Bathymetric information is derived from satellite data using a physics-based model. A validation exercise performed on a large bathymetric survey data set (N = 43,949) demonstrates that the inversion model performs excellently in estimating the depth of mildly to moderately turbid shallow waters. The performance of the model suggests that the minimum requirements are fulfilled to apply the SPOT-derived bathymetry to morphodynamic applications. We demonstrate that high-spatial-resolution multispectral sensors are well adapted to analyzing the morphological evolution of small- (i.e., sand dunes), medium- (i.e., sandbanks and channels), and large- (i.e., the entire inlet-lagoon system) scale sedimentary structures present in coastal inlets. For the first time, the long-term evolution of a flood and ebb-tidal delta is characterized by observations at a seasonal timescale. Finally, migration rates of sedimentary entities are quantified, and fundamental mechanisms driving the sediment transport cross the inlet are confirmed.

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Acknowledgments

This work was supported by the Centre National d’Etude Spatiale (CNES) in the framework of the MORITO project (TOSCA program), INFOLITTORAL-1 project (Pôle de compétitivité–Fonds Unique Interministériel program) and the Region Aquitaine OSQUARII/Inlet project. The authors would also like to thank the CNES and C-S for supplying level-3 data in the frame of the KALIDEOS-Littoral program, the Direction Départementale des Territoires et de la Mer (DDTM) and the Syndicat Intercommunal du Bassin d’Arcachon (SIBA) for supplying the inlet bathymetric soundings data since 2001.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. UMR 5805 EPOC, Université de Bordeaux, Allée Geoffroy St-Hilaire, Pessac, 33615, France

    Sylvain Capo, Bertrand Lubac & Driss Bru

  2. Telespazio, Izarbel, 64210, Bidart, France

    Sylvain Capo

  3. UMR 5805 EPOC, CNRS, Allée Geoffroy St-Hilaire, Pessac, 33615, France

    Vincent Marieu, Arthur Robinet & Philippe Bonneton

Authors
  1. Sylvain Capo
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  2. Bertrand Lubac
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  3. Vincent Marieu
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  4. Arthur Robinet
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  5. Driss Bru
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  6. Philippe Bonneton
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Correspondence to Bertrand Lubac.

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Responsible Editor: Aldo Sottolichio

This article is part of the Topical Collection on the 7th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics in Arcachon, France 24-28 June 2013

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Capo, S., Lubac, B., Marieu, V. et al. Assessment of the decadal morphodynamic evolution of a mixed energy inlet using ocean color remote sensing. Ocean Dynamics 64, 1517–1530 (2014). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-014-0762-1

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-014-0762-1

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