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Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods

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Abstract

The efficiency of eight different procedures used for the extraction of natural dyes was evaluated using contemporary wool samples dyed with cochineal, madder, woad, weld, brazilwood and logwood. Comparison was made based on the LC-DAD peak areas of the natural dye’s main components which had been extracted from the wool samples. Among the tested methods, an extraction procedure with Na2EDTA in water/DMF (1:1, v/v) proved to be the most suitable for the extraction of the studied dyes, which presented a wide range of chemical structures. The identification of the natural dyes used in the making of an eighteenth century Arraiolos carpet was possible using the Na2EDTA/DMF extraction of the wool embroidery samples and an LC-DAD-MS methodology. The effectiveness of the Na2EDTA/DMF extraction method was particularly observed in the extraction of weld dye components. Nine flavone derivatives previously identified in weld extracts could be identified in a single historical sample, confirming the use of this natural dye in the making of Arraiolos carpets. Indigo and brazilwood were also identified in the samples, and despite the fact that these natural dyes were referred in the historical recipes of Arraiolos dyeing, it is the first time that the use of brazilwood is confirmed. Mordant analysis by ICP-MS identified the widespread use of alum in the dyeing process, but in some samples with darker hues, high amounts of iron were found instead.

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Acknowledgements

This work was funded by the Portuguese Foundation for Science and Technology (FCT) (grant no. FCOMP-01-0124-FEDER-010482). A. Manhita also acknowledges FCT for a Ph.D. Fellowship (SFRH/BD/22411/2005). The authors acknowledge architect Teresa Pacheco Pereira from the National Museum of Ancient Arts, Institute of Museums and Conservation for the Arraiolos carpet selection and Mr. Luis Pedro from the Conservation and Restoration Department, Institute of Museums and Conservation for his help in collecting the historical samples. The authors also wish to thank Prof. Pat Sandra and Dr. Lieve Balcaen for the ICP-MS analyses.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Chemistry Department and Évora Chemistry Centre, University of Évora, Rua Romão Ramalho 59, 7000–671, Évora, Portugal

    Ana Manhita, Teresa Ferreira, António Candeias & Cristina Barrocas Dias

  2. HERCULES Laboratory, Largo Marquês de Marialva, 8, 7000–554, Évora, Portugal

    Ana Manhita, Teresa Ferreira, António Candeias & Cristina Barrocas Dias

  3. José de Figueiredo Conservation and Restoration Laboratory, Institute of Museums and Conservation, Rua das Janelas Verdes 37, 1249–018, Lisboa, Portugal

    António Candeias

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  1. Ana Manhita
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  2. Teresa Ferreira
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  4. Cristina Barrocas Dias
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Correspondence to Cristina Barrocas Dias.

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Manhita, A., Ferreira, T., Candeias, A. et al. Extracting natural dyes from wool—an evaluation of extraction methods. Anal Bioanal Chem 400, 1501–1514 (2011). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00216-011-4858-x

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00216-011-4858-x

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