Equilibrium coastal profiles: I. Review and synthesis
Rent the article at a discountRent now
* Final gross prices may vary according to local VAT.Get Access
Applicability of the coastal equilibrium concept depends upon proof of the existence of equilibrium. The present study demonstrates that, on the basis of the sediment continuity equation, three types of equilibrium are possible. Type I equilibrium requires that instantaneous sediment transport rates in both longshore and cross-shore directions are small, representing a final stage of erosion in response to natural processes. Type II equilibrium is reached if there are no variations in the net sediment transport rate in the longshore directions (i.e. zero cross-shore sediment transport). Such a situation occurs if the coastline is straight and there are no alongshore variations in hydrodynamic (i.e. wave and tidal) conditions. Type III equilibrium occurs when there are variations in longshore transport rates but the magnitude of instantaneous transport rate in the longshore direction is small compared with that in the cross-shore directions. In this case, the coastal profile is characterised by parallel advancement or retreat. Disequilibrium occurs if these conditions are not satisfied. Hence, prior to the selection of methods to determine the equilibrium coastal profile and the response time, the type of equilibrium must be identified.
- Bruun, P., 1954. Coast erosion and the development of beach profiles. Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memo No.44, 79 p.
- Cornaglia, P., 1898. On beaches.In: Fisher, J. S. and Dolan, R. (editors), 1977, Beach Processes and Coastal Hydrodynamics, Dowden, Hutchingson and Ross, Stroudsburg. p. 11–26.
- Cornish, V., 1898. On sea beaches and sand banks.Geogr. J. 11: 528–559, 628–647. CrossRef
- Dally, W. R., Dean, R. G., 1984. Suspended sediment transport and beach profile evolution.J. Waterway, Port, Coastal Ocean Eng., ASCE 110: 15–33. CrossRef
- Dean, R. G., 1977. Equilibrium beach profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. Department of Civil Engineering, Ocean Engineering Report No. 12, University of Delaware, 45 p.
- Dean, R. G., 1991. Equilibrium beach profiles: characteristics and application.J. Coast. Res. 7: 53–84.
- Dean, R. G., Healy, T. R., Dommerholt, A. P., 1993. A “blind-folded” test of equilibrium beach profile concepts with New Zealand data.Mar. Geol. 109: 253–266. CrossRef
- Fennemen, N. M., 1902. Development of the profile of equilibrium of the subaqueous shore terrace.J. Geol. 10: 353–369.
- Fredsoe, J., Deigaard, R., 1992. Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport. World Scientific, Singapore, 369 p.
- Greenwood, B., Miller, P. R., 1984. Sediment flux and equilibrium slopes in a barred nearshore.Mar. Geol. 60: 79–98 CrossRef
- Hayes, M.O., 1967. Relationship between coastal climate and bottom sediment on the inner continental shelf.Mar. Geol. 5: 111–132. CrossRef
- Hsu, J. R. C., Silvester, R., Xia, Y.M., 1989. Generalities on static equilibrium bays.Coast. Eng 12: 353–369. CrossRef
- Johnson, D. W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. John Wiley, New York, 584 p.
- King, C. A. M., 1972. Beaches and Coasts (2nd edition). Edward Arnold, London, 570 p.
- Leont'ev, I. O., 1985. Sediment transport and beach equilibrium profile.Coast. Eng. 9: 277–291. CrossRef
- Liu, J. T., Zarillo, G. A., 1989. Distribution of grain sizes across a transgressive shoreface.Mar. Geol. 87: 121–136. CrossRef
- Massel, S. R., 1989. Hydrodynamics of Coastal Zones. Elsevier, Amsterdam, 336 p.
- Musielak, S., 1978. Littoral processes in the swash zone.Oceanologia,8: 5–56. (in Polish, with English abstract).
- Nairn, R. B., Southgate, H. N., 1993. Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part II: Sediment transport and beach profile development.Coast. Eng. 19: 57–96. CrossRef
- Nummedal, D., Sonnenfeld, D. L., Taylor, K., 1984. Sediment transport and morphology at the surf zone of Presque Isle, Lake Erie, Pennsylvania.Mar. Geol. 60: 99–122. CrossRef
- Powell, K. A., 1986. The Hydraulic Behaviour of Shingle Beaches under Regular Waves of Normal Incidence. Unpublished Ph.D. Thesis, University of Southampton, 359 p.
- Silvester, R., 1974. Coastal Engineering (Vol.2). Elsevier, Amsterdam, 338 p.
- Southgate, H. N., Nairn, R. B., 1993. Deterministic profile modelling of nearshore processes. Part I: Waves and Currents.Coast. Eng. 19: 27–56. CrossRef
- Sunamura, T., 1984. Quantitative predictions of beach-face slopes.Bull. Geol.Soc. Amer. 95: 242–245. CrossRef
- Wright, L. D., 1995. Morphodynamics of Inner Continental Shelves. CRC Press, Boca Raton, 241 p.
- Zenkovich, V. P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development (English edition). Oliver and Boyd, Edinburgh, 738 p.
- Equilibrium coastal profiles: I. Review and synthesis
Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology
Volume 16, Issue 2 , pp 97-107
- Cover Date
- Print ISSN
- Online ISSN
- Science Press
- Additional Links
- coastal profile
- sediment movement
- Industry Sectors