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Uses of pre-Hispanic kitchenware from Central Nicaragua: implications for understanding botanical foodways

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Abstract

Archaeobotanical investigations in central Nicaragua are absent and preservation of organic remains is poor; therefore, we have applied starch analyses to samples from fragments of clay vessels excavated from layers dated to cal 1224 and 1391 CE at the Barillas site, Nicaragua. The approach to this dataset reveals the ways people interacted with edible plants in southern Central America. The scarcity of griddles recovered from ancient Nicaraguan archeological contexts has previously co-determined narratives on human mobility or cultural influence from the Mesoamerican culture area, due to the debatable presumption that this type of artifact necessarily entangles production and consumption of maize tortillas. In this article, we present results demonstrating evidence for the use of several starchy plants. The reconstructed culinary practices are vital for disentangling human–plant interrelationships and challenge earlier conceptions of ancient foodways in Central America. This research constitutes the first starch analysis in Nicaragua and the recovered plant remains belonging to manioc (Manihot esculenta Crantz), chili pepper (Capsicum sp.), and maize (Zea mays L.) have provided empirical evidence of ancient foodways. Concomitantly, these results have invalidated the preconception that griddles were tools used exclusively for the production of maize tortillas.

Resumen

Debido a la escasez de investigaciones arqueobotánicas en el centro de Nicaragua y a la supuesta deficiente preservación de restos orgánicos, esta investigación propone el análisis de granos de almidones provenientes de vasijas excavadas en el sitio Barillas (1224-1391 años Cal E.C.). Los datos obtenidos en este trabajo echan luz acerca de las diferentes formas en que los antiguos habitantes del sur de Centroamérica preparaban y consumían alimentos. La ausencia de comales en contextos arqueológicos nicaragüenses ha determinado ciertas narrativas acerca de movimientos poblacionales y la influencia del área cultural mesoamericana, ya que se presume que este tipo de artefactos necesariamente implica la producción y consumo de tortillas de maíz. En este artículo presentamos los resultados de los análisis arqueobotánicos de granos de almidón extraídos de implementos de cocina que fueron recuperados en el contexto de excavaciones estratigráficas. Las prácticas alimentarias identificadas en este trabajo son fundamentales para elucidar las interrelaciones entre plantas y seres humanos, así como para desafiar las preconcepciones relacionadas con las tradiciones culinarias en la antigua América Central. Los datos presentados constituyen los primeros resultados de análisis de granos almidones en el país y los restos recuperados de mandioca (Manihot esculenta Crantz), chile (Capsicum sp.) y maíz (Zea mays L.) proporcionan evidencia empírica del antiguo uso de alimentos de origen vegetal en el centro de Nicaragua. De igual manera, los resultados invalidan la idea de que los comales consistían en implementos de cocina utilizados exclusivamente para la producción de tortillas de maíz.

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Acknowledgments

We thank Leiden University for providing support and lab spaces for our work. We would like to thank all the participants of the excavations at the Barillas site. Thank you to Simone Casale for the creation of Fig. 1. Special thanks to Dr. Jaime Pagán-Jiménez for his guidance with the starch analysis.

Funding

This research was supported by the Netherlands Organization for Scientific Research (NWO) VIDI Grant 016.134.309 and the European Research Council ERC-NEXUS1492 grant agreement 319209, and the export of archeological materials was facilitated by the Instituto Nicaragüense de Cultura, under the technical supervision of the Dirección Nacional de Arqueología (permit Co-DG/01-2017).

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Ciofalo, A.J., Donner, N.R., Hofman, C.L. et al. Uses of pre-Hispanic kitchenware from Central Nicaragua: implications for understanding botanical foodways. Archaeol Anthropol Sci 12, 13 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12520-019-00955-9

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