Abstract
Plant extracts have acquired tremendous commercial potential for their use in textile dyeing and finishing applications instead of toxic synthetic dyes which produce hazardous chemicals. Synthetic dyes particularly azo dyes have been banned in many countries. On the other hand, polymer and textile scientists have focussed their momentum to investigate dyeing chemicals and auxiliaries from plant materials. Phytochemicals including colorants from plant extracts exhibit many advantageous functions such as better biodegradability, higher compatibility with the environment, lower toxicity and also produce soft and sober shades. Among different fibres cotton has been extensively dyed with colorants derived from plant sources such as Weld (Reseda luteola), Annato (Bixa orellana), Sage (Salvia officinalis), Henna (Lawsonia inermis), Saffron (Crocus sativus), Madder (Rubia tinctorum, R. cordifolia), and Sappanwood (Caesalpinia sappan). In this chapter we review some of the commonly used plant extracts in cotton dyeing. This chapter also describes latest research that is underway in this area to replace metal salt mordants which create pollution and human health problems.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
References
Adeel S, Ali S, Bhatti IA, Zsila F (2009) Dyeing of cotton fabric using pomegranate (Punica granatum) aqueous extract. Asian J Chem 21:3493–3499
Agarwal SK, Singh SS, Verma S, Kumar S (2000) Antifungal activity of anthraquinone derivatives from Rheum emodi. J Ethnopharmacol 72:43–46
Anonymous (1972) Wealth of India: raw materials vol IX. CSIR, New Delhi
Batool F, Adeel S, Azeem M, Ahmad Khan A, Ahmad Bhatti I, Ghaffar A, Iqbal N (2013) Gamma radiations induced improvement in dyeing properties and colorfastness of cotton fabrics dyed with chicken gizzard leaves extracts. Radiat Phys Chem 89:33–37
Bechtold T, Mussak R (2009) Handbook of natural colorants. Wiley, Chichester, UK
Bhuyan R, Saikia CN (2005) Isolation of colour components from native dye-bearing plants in northeastern India. Bioresour Technol 96:363–372
Boldizsár I, Szűcs Z, Füzfai Z, Molnár-Perl I (2006) Identification and quantification of the constituents of madder root by gas chromatography and high-performance liquid chromatography. J Chromatogr A 1133:259–274
Chairat M, Rattanaphani S, Bremner JB, Rattanaphani V (2008) Adsorption kinetic study of lac dyeing on cotton. Dyes Pigm 76:435–439
Das D, Maulik SR, Bhattacharya SC (2008) Colouration of wool and silk with Rheum emodi. Indian J Fibre Text Res 33:163–170
El-Shishtawy RM, Shokry GM, Ahmed NSE, Kamel MM (2009) Dyeing of modified acrylic fibers with curcumin and madder natural dyes. Fibers Polym 10:617–624
Erdem İşmal Ö, Yıldırım L, Özdoğan E (2014a) Use of almond shell extracts plus biomordants as effective textile dye. J Clean Prod 70:61–67
Erdem İşmal Ö, Yıldırım L, Özdoğan E (2014b) Valorisation of almond shell waste in ultrasonic biomordanted dyeing: alternatives to metallic mordants. J Text Institute 1–11
Farizadeh K, Montazer M, Yazdanshenas ME, Rashidi A, Malek RMA (2009) Extraction, identification and sorption studies of dyes from madder on wool. J Appl Polym Sci 113:3799–3808
Guesmi A, Ladhari N, Hamadi NB, Msaddek M, Sakli F (2013) First application of chlorophyll-a as biomordant: sonicator dyeing of wool with betanin dye. J Clean Prod 39:97–104
Gulrajani ML, Gupta D (1992) Natural dyes and their application to textiles. Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi, New Delhi, India
Gupta D, Kumari S, Gulrajani M (2001a) Dyeing studies with hydroxyanthraquinones extracted from Indian madder. Part 1: dyeing of nylon with purpurin. Color Technol 117:328–332
Gupta D, Kumari S, Gulrajani M (2001b) Dyeing studies with hydroxyanthraquinones extracted from Indian madder. Part 2: dyeing of nylon and polyester with nordamncanthal. Color Technol 117:333–336
Gupta DB, Gulrajani M (1996) The light fading mechanism of dyes derived from rhubarb extract. J Soc Dyers Colour 112:269–272
Haji A (2010) Functional dyeing of wool with natural dye extracted from Berberis vulgaris wood and Rumex hymenosepolus root as biomordant. Iran J Chem Chem Eng 29
Islam S, Mohammad F (2015a) High-energy radiation induced sustainable coloration and functional finishing of textile materials. Ind Eng Chem Res 54:3727–3745
Islam S, Mohammad F (2015b) Natural colorants in the presence of anchors so-called mordants as promising coloring and antimicrobial agents for textile materials. ACS Sustain Chem Eng 3:2361–2375
Islam S, Mohammad F (2016a) Potent polyphenolic natural colorants derived from plants as eco-friendly raw materials for the dyeing industry. In: Muthu SS, Gardetti MA (eds) Green fashion, vol 2. Springer Singapore, Singapore, pp 229–247
Islam S, Mohammad F (2016b) Sustainable natural fibres from animals, plants and agroindustrial wastes—an overview. In: Muthu SS, Gardetti M (eds) Sustainable fibres for fashion industry, vol 2. Springer Singapore, Singapore, pp 31–44
Islam S, Shahid M, Mohammad F (2014a) Future prospects of phytosynthesized transition metal nanoparticles as novel functional agents for textiles. In: Tiwari A, Syvajarvi M (eds) Advanced materials for agriculture, food, and environmental safety. John Wiley & Sons, Inc., pp 265–290
Islam S, Rather LJ, Shahid M, Khan MA, Mohammad F (2014b) Study the effect of ammonia post-treatment on color characteristics of annatto-dyed textile substrate using reflectance spectrophotometery. Ind Crop Product 59:337–342
Islam S, Shahid M, Mohammad F (2013) Green chemistry approaches to develop antimicrobial textiles based on sustainable biopolymers-a review. Ind Eng Chem Res 57
Islam S, Rather LJ, Shabbir M, Bukhari MN, Shahid M, Ali Khan M, Mohammad F (2016) Bi and tri metal salt combinations plus colorants extracted from timber industry waste as effective dyeing materials to produce novel shades on wool. J Nat Fibers 1–11
Khan SA, Ahmad A, Khan MI, Yusuf M, Shahid M, Manzoor N, Mohammad F (2012) Antimicrobial activity of wool yarn dyed with Rheum emodi L. (Indian Rhubarb). Dyes Pigm 95:206–214
Kim S-H (2006) Dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of green tea dyed cotton fabrics. Fibers Polym 7:255–261
Liakopoulou-Kyriakides M, Tsatsaroni E, Laderos P, Georgiadou K (1998) Dyeing of cotton and wool fibres with pigments from Crocus sativus—effect of enzymatic treatment. Dyes Pigm 36:215–221
Mansour R, Mighri Z, Mhenni F (2016) Exploring the potential uses of Vitis vinifera L. leaves as raw material for textile dyeing without metal mordants. Fibers Polym 17:1621–1626
Mayer F, Cook AH (1943) The chemistry of natural coloring matters: the constitutions, properties, and biological relations of the important natural pigments. Reinhold publishing corporation, New York
Mikropoulou E, Tsatsaroni E, Varella EA (2009) Revival of traditional European dyeing techniques yellow and red colorants. J Cultural Heritage 10:447–457
Nayak L (2014) A study on coloring properties of Rheum emodi on jute union fabrics. J Text 2014:1
Parvinzadeh M (2007) Effect of proteolytic enzyme on dyeing of wool with madder. Enzym Microb Technol 40:1719–1722
Perkin AG, Everest AE (1918) The natural organic colouring matters. Longmans, Green and Co., London
Prabhu KH, Teli MD (2014) Eco-dyeing using Tamarindus indica L. seed coat tannin as a natural mordant for textiles with antibacterial activity. J. Saudi Chem. Soc. 18:864–872
Prabhu KH, Teli MD, Waghmare NG (2011) Eco-friendly dyeing using natural mordant extracted from Emblica officinalis G. Fruit on cotton and silk fabrics with antibacterial activity. Fibers and Polym 12:753
Rather LJ, Islam S, Azam M, Shabbir M, Bukhari MN, Shahid M, Khan MA, Rizwanul Haque QM, Mohammad F (2016a) Antimicrobial and fluorescence finishing of woolen yarn with Terminalia arjuna natural dye as an ecofriendly substitute to synthetic antibacterial agents. RSC Advan 6:39080–39094
Rather LJ, Islam S, Khan MA, Mohammad F (2016b) Adsorption and kinetic studies of Adhatoda vasica natural dye onto woolen yarn with evaluations of Colorimetric and Fluorescence Characteristics. J Env Chem Eng 4:1780–1796
Rather LJ, Shahid I, Mohammad F (2015) Study on the application of Acacia nilotica natural dye to wool using fluorescence and FT-IR spectroscopy. Fibers Polym 16:1497–1505
Rather LJ, Shahid ul I, Shabbir M, Bukhari MN, Shahid M, Khan MA, Mohammad F (2016c) Ecological dyeing of woolen yarn with Adhatoda vasica natural dye in the presence of biomordants as an alternative copartner to metal mordants. J Environm Chem Eng 4:3041–3049
Rattanaphani S, Chairat M, Bremner JB, Rattanaphani V (2007) An adsorption and thermodynamic study of lac dyeing on cotton pretreated with chitosan. Dyes Pigm 72:88–96
Rehman F-U, Adeel S, Qaiser S, Ahmad Bhatti I, Shahid M, Zuber M (2012) Dyeing behaviour of gamma irradiated cotton fabric using Lawson dye extracted from henna leaves (Lawsonia inermis). Radiat Phys Chem 81:1752–1756
Samantaa AK, Agarwal P (2009) Application of natural dyes on textiles. Indian J Fibre Text Res 34:384–399
Shahid M, Mohammad F, Chen G, Tang R-C, Xing T (2016) Enzymatic processing of natural fibres: white biotechnology for sustainable development. Green Chem 18:2256–2281
Shahid M, Shahid ul I, Mohammad F (2013) Recent advancements in natural dye applications: a review. J Clean Prod 53:310–331
Shahmoradi Ghaheh F, Mortazavi SM, Alihosseini F, Fassihi A, Shams Nateri A, Abedi D (2014) Assessment of antibacterial activity of wool fabrics dyed with natural dyes. J Clean Prod 72:139–145
Sivakumar V, Anna JL, Vijayeeswarri J, Swaminathan G (2009) Ultrasound assisted enhancement in natural dye extraction from beetroot for industrial applications and natural dyeing of leather. Ultrason Sonochem 16:782–789
Tsatsaroni E, Liakopoulou-Kyriakides M, Eleftheriadis I (1998a) Comparative study of dyeing properties of two yellow natural pigments—effect of enzymes and proteins. Dyes Pigm 37:307–315
Tsatsaroni E, Liakopoulou-Kyriakides M, Eleftheriadis I (1998b) Comparative study of dyeing properties of two yellow natural pigments—effect of enzymes and proteins. Dye Pigm 37:307–315
Tutak M, Benli H (2011) Colour and fastness of fabrics dyed with walnut (Juglans regia L.) base natural dyes. Asian J Chem 23:566–568
Tutak M, Korkmaz NE (2012) Environmentally friendly natural dyeing of organic cotton. J Nat Fib. 9:51–59
Van Stralen T (1993) Indigo, madder & marigold: a portfolio of colors from natural dyes. Interweave Press, Colorado, USA
Vankar PS, Shanker R (2008) Ecofriendly ultrasonic natural dyeing of cotton fabric with enzyme pretreatments. Desalination 230:62–69
Vankar PS, Shanker R, Verma A (2007) Enzymatic natural dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics without metal mordants. J Clean Prod 15:1441–1450
Vankar PS, Shukla D (2012) Biosynthesis of silver nanoparticles using lemon leaves extract and its application for antimicrobial finish on fabric. Appl Nanosci 2:163–168
Vankar PS, Tiwari V, Srivastava J (2006) Extracts of stem bark of Eucalyptus globulus as food dye with high antioxidant properties. Electron J Environ Agric Food Chem 5:1664–1669
Vankar PS, Shanker R, Mahanta D, and Tiwari SC (2008) Ecofriendly sonicator dyeing of cotton with Rubia cordifolia Linn. using biomordant. Dyes Pigm. 76:207–212
Vera de Rosso V, Mercadante AZ (2009) Dyes in South America. In: Bechtold T, Mussak R (eds) Handbook of natural colorants. John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, Chichester, UK., pp 53–64
Yaman N, Özdoğan E, Seventekin N, Ayhan H (2009) Plasma treatment of polypropylene fabric for improved dyeability with soluble textile dyestuff. Appl Surf Sci 255:6764–6770
Yusuf M, Ahmad A, Shahid M, Khan MI, Khan SA, Manzoor N, Mohammad F (2012) Assessment of colorimetric, antibacterial and antifungal properties of woollen yarn dyed with the extract of the leaves of henna (Lawsonia inermis). J Clean Prod 27:42–50
Yusuf M, Islam S, Khan MA, Mohammad F (2016a) Investigations of the colourimetric and fastness properties of wool dyed with colorants extracted from Indian madder using reflectance spectroscopy. Optik—Intern J Light Electron Optics 127:6087–6093
Yusuf M, Khan SA, Shabbir M, Mohammad F (2016b) Developing a shade range on wool by madder (Rubia cordifolia) root extract with gallnut (Quercus infectoria) as Biomordant. J Nat Fiber, 1–11
Yusuf M, Mohammad F, Shabbir M, Khan MA (2017) Eco-dyeing of wool with Rubia cordifolia. Text Cloth Sustain 2:1–9
Yusuf M, Shahid M, Khan MI, Khan SA, Khan MA, Mohammad F (2015) Dyeing studies with henna and madder: a research on effect of tin (II) chloride mordant. J Saudi Chem Soc 19:64–72
Yusuf M, Shahid M, Khan SA, Khan MI, Islam S-U, Mohammad F, Khan MA (2013) Eco-dyeing of wool using aqueous extract of the roots of indian madder (Rubia cordifolia) as natural dye. J Nat Fibres 10:14–28
Yusuf M, Shahid ul I, Khan MA, Mohammad F (2016c) Investigations of the colourimetric and fastness properties of wool dyed with colorants extracted from Indian madder using reflectance spectroscopy. Optik—Int J Light Electron Optics 127:6087–6093
Zhang B, Wang L, Luo L, King MW (2014a) Natural dye extracted from Chinese gall—the application of color and antibacterial activity to wool fabric. J Clean Prod 80:204–210
Zhang B, Wang L, Luo L, King MW (2014b) Natural dye extracted from Chinese gall—the application of color and antibacterial activity to wool fabric. J Clean Prod 80:204–210
Zhao Q, Feng H, Wang L (2014) Dyeing properties and color fastness of cellulase-treated flax fabric with extractives from chestnut shell. J Clean Prod 80:197–203
Zheng GH, Fu HB, Liu GP (2011) Application of rare earth as mordant for the dyeing of ramie fabrics with natural dyes. Korean J Chem Eng 28:2148–2155
Zhou C-E, Kan C-W (2014) Plasma-assisted regenerable chitosan antimicrobial finishing for cotton. Cellulose 21:2951–2962
Zhou Y, Zhang J, Tang R-C, Zhang J (2014) Simultaneous dyeing and functionalization of silk with three natural yellow dyes. Ind Crop Prod
Acknowledgment
Dr Shahid-ul-Islam gratefully acknowledge financial support from the DST-SERB through National Postdoc Fellowship (Grant no. PDF/2016/003859).
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Corresponding author
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Shahid-ul-Islam, Butola, B.S. (2018). Green Dyeing of Cotton- New Strategies to Replace Toxic Metallic Salts. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Detox Fashion. Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-4876-0_3
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-4876-0_3
Published:
Publisher Name: Springer, Singapore
Print ISBN: 978-981-10-4875-3
Online ISBN: 978-981-10-4876-0
eBook Packages: EngineeringEngineering (R0)